When I was young, my parents would take me on Sunday drives with them.  We often would end up at the Traverse City State Hospital, once called the  Northern Michigan Asylum. Now this may seem like an odd place, but the  grounds were so beautiful that we often made it our final destination. We would  drive slowly down the color-coded streets with the lush trees hanging overhead  and the small creeks meandering alongside the roads. We found solitude in this  place. There were still patients "incarcerated" then, but we did not know any of  them. They did not seem unhappy there. At that time conventional wisdom  was that these people were best kept in such a place. True or not, if they had anything, they had solitude and beauty all around them. 

The history of the State Hospital goes back to the 19th Century. Perry Hannah, well known for his lumbering business, believed that Traverse City would become obsolete if the forests of the local area were depleted. In an effort to save the place he loved, he spearheaded a plan to convince the State to build a mental asylum here. His effort bore fruit in 1883, when building began on what was known as the Traverse City State Hospital. It was one of the first state hospitals to be wired with electricity, but the architects weren’t so sure that electricity would be anything more than a passing phase, so they also installed gas power too. In total, it took 9 million bricks—cast in Greilickville and hauled to the site by mules—to complete the buildings.

James Decker Munson was the first Medical Superintendent. He worked hard to keep treatment innovative and effective for his patients. He had his job cut out for him. Building 50 reached capacity of 500 patients within the first year and, at one point, the hospital housed 3,500 patients. Although Munson offered great training for nurses, it was hard to keep staff because Traverse City was still very much out in the boondocks. Nonetheless, the hospital thrived. Dr. Munson believed "work is therapy" and the patients were encouraged to work the farms. Consequently, much of the food for the patients was grown on the grounds. In addition, the hospital raised Holsteins. The State Hospital was famous for its world champion Holstein, Traverse Colantha Walker. She produced 200,114 pounds of milk and 7,525 pounds of butterfat during her life. Her gravestone is still on the grounds near the barns. 

Dr. Munson was instrumental in providing a great variety of plantings for the grounds. During his many travels he brought back seeds from many different kinds of trees. It is said that he took the gardener out with him after one of his trips and Munson would cast three or four stones onto the ground. Where the stones fell is where a seed was planted.  Today, there are approximately 65 species of trees scattered throughout the property.

After all these years, I still return to the State Hospital. The trees have matured and the trails are more rutted, but it holds a special place in my heart.  I like to hike (or bike) the grounds at least once per week. I bring my dog and whomever I can drag along. We walk in quiet contemplation. When I reach the high peaks I am able to see to Acme and beyond. I look to the north, and on clear days Power Island floats in the midst of shimmering green waters. On other trips, I walk the ridge and feel like I am on top of the world. Cool days force me to stick to the open trail along the fields to feel the warm sun on my face, but on very warm days I take the route through the cedars and along, and sometimes in, the creek. I wade around looking for pretty stones and feel the delightfully cool waters running along my fingers as I dig for them.

One day I decided that this was the quietest place, until I really listened. I stood on the bridge over the creek and heard the water rushing over the boulders. I heard the birds, hundreds of them, of all kinds, singing their songs.  Nearby I heard a frog chirping his mating calls. This was not really a quiet place after all, but rather a place with noise different from the familiar sounds of city life. This place clears my mind and renews my soul. This is indeed what it was intended to do from its inception for the people who spend time here.

As a gift to my fellow Mensans, I invite you to come on a hike with me after brunch this month. Hopefully we will have just enough snow to show the beauty of the streams as the ice forms along the edges and the snow enhances the sound of the water flowing. We will listen to the birds sing as they flit from branch to branch. We will take a leisurely walk up through the cedars and along the lower hills and back to the main path leading to the trailhead. For those who are more adventurous and willing to make a more strenuous climb, we can continue along the path in the hardwoods and up the hill to the high ridge to view the surrounding countryside. Come walk with me, clear your mind and renew your soul.

©2003, Sherry McNamara, all rights reserved

Page last updated: 05/11/2005